Oceana, at 55 East 54th Street (212) 759-5941, is a fine restaurant with emphasis on excellent service and superb seafood. Under the management of the Livanos family, managing partner Paul McLaughlin, and executive chef Cornelius Gallagher, it has built a devoted following. Located between Park and Madison Avenues, Oceana attracts many from the nearby shops and businesses as well as those who travel a bit to enjoy its ambience and great food.

On a recent day at lunch we were seated and our cocktails were brought as we leisurely perused the menu. Although there is a three-course prix fixe lunch $48, we opted to select from the full menu. As we made our choices, a tray of warm rolls baked on the premises was presented. The multi-grain and fennel varieties were outstanding.

From the three-course menu we chose our appetizers: Warm Maine Lobster with a paysanne of fall root vegetables, apple puree with porcini emulsion and Peruvian Diver Scallop Ceviche with mango, jalapeno, ohba and tangerine. The lobster was tender and its embellishments were delicious. The ceviche was very good and I sopped up its juices with my roll!

Other appetizers on the set menu include Sashimi or White and Red Tuna, Tartare of Yellowfin Tuna, Veloute of Rutabaga, Organic Mixed Greens, Carnarolli Risotto at $40 and Oysters and Caviar at $12. There is a two-course menu with Indian Mulligatawny Soup or Rock Shrimp Tempura as appetizers. On this two-course menu entrees are Maine Skate or Arctic Char. No dessert, but petits fours are included at $30.

Entrees on the three-course menu, which we chose, were Wild Sturgeon in the style of Venice with shaved sopressata, sage orecchiette, kale, plus tomato and sweet garlic fennel seed broth; Chatham Haddock, glazed with black olives and dill; Loup de Mer en croute with basmati rice, glazed bok choy with essence of tamarind and wasabi. Another delicious dish was Butter Roasted Salmon. We shared and tasted and felt that all was right with the world - especially after our wines arrived. Bruni Gicosa from Piemonte, Italy was my companion’s superior accompaniment and my Shiraz, Voyager Estate, Australia was equally good at $16. Half bottles are available.

As you might imagine, each entrée was presented with a flourish and was beautifully decorated on the plates.

Other entrees on the three-course menu includes Monkfish with olives, savory and piquillo; Endive Italian broccoli and Serrando Ham Quiche; Atlantic Halibut; Loin of Lamb with savory cabbage, fingerlings, parsnips and maple perigourdine jus.

Desserts were wonderful. Sicilian Pistachio Sundae with milk chocolate feuilletine crunch is a memory of delight, and warm Sticky Toffee Pudding with vanilla ice cream I shall never forget. White Poached Pear with candied ginger ice cream and butterscotch was also great. Other dessert choices include Poached Apple Crumb Cake with quince sorbet, Cranberry Panna Cotta, Pumpkin Gingerbread Strudel with pomegranate ice cream and Chocolate Ice Cream Sandwich. Each dish looked handsome and tasted even better. For those who prefer cheese there is a plate of cheeses at $5. David Carmichael is the pastry chef.

These special lunch menus are not available at dinner but there are selections of three courses for $78; with accompanying wines the price is $125. The two-course lunch menu is $30; the three course lunch menu is $48.

For a tremendously satisfying experience at an attractive restaurant where the emphasis is on seafood, diners will not be disappointed.

Hours: Lunch Monday through Friday. Dinner nightly. Closed Sunday
Credit cards: All major
Wheelchair Accessibility: Yes
Price: $$$

Restaurant Nippon, at 155 East 52nd Street, between Third and Lexington Avenues, 212 758-0226, has been attracting those who appreciate fine Japanese cuisine since 1963. The waitresses, traditionally garbed in kimonos, are well versed in all aspects of the cuisine and will recommend for those who are not familiar with its intricacies. The restaurant has not changed its decor much - it is done in pastel peach - and there is a relatively quiet atmosphere and separate areas for those who want to dine a la the Japanese.

When we lunched at Nippon recently, we were overwhelmed by the very large menus and by the fact that the restaurant has just received the New York City Michelin "double forks" citation.

The variety of fish and seafood is extraordinary and it is always fresh and cut to order. We began with a platter of Sushi (with vinegar rice) including fluke, tuna, yellowtail and a new creation: Shrimp Tempura Roll. Of course, the accoutrements of fresh ginger and wasabi sauce added to its appeal. The latest addition to this vast menu is fresh wasabi which is flown directly from Japan and is presented along with a small grinder allowing diners to add piquancy to sushi and sashimi. It is $16 for the special wasabi along with one roll.

Soba noodles are a specialty of Nippon. The buckwheat is grown on a farm in Canada where it is sown, harvested and mixed with 20% udon wheat to become soba noodles. These noodles are full of amino acids as well as vitamins B and E. They help prevent high blood pressure and cerebral hemorrhage and aid in controlling weight to keep people slim.

With all of this information about soba noodles we opted for Beef Soba Salad: salad topped with lightly sautéed thin slices of prime rib of beef at $20. The soba salads are $16 to $24 for Blackened Tuna, Chicken, Seafood and Tofu. With each salad soup and rice are served. Other salads without soba noodles include Nippon Beef, Scottish Salmon and Chicken.

For our second entrée we had Tempura with shrimp, eggplant, mushrooms bnd Broccoli. All of these lunch dishes are served with Nippon Salad, miso soup and steamed rice. There might be Sashimi, Sushi or Sushi deluxe, Teriyaki Beef Steak a la Nippon, Beef Negimayaki, Tonkatsu (a pork dish popular in Japan), or Curry with Rice, a new menu addition. These lunch special are $19 to $38 for the beef steak.

For those with heartier appetites there are Kaiseki (tasting menus) which presents an assortment of Sushi, Tempura, Sukiyaki and Teriyaki for one menu and Nimono (simmered fish), Tempura and also soba noodles on the other. Each is $38.

From the large list of saki, liquors and beers my choice was Aramasa Saki served cold. It was fine with all I consumed. My companion enjoyed Chardonnay.

There are a number of soba noodle special from $17 to $23. One presents curry, another two jumbo shrimp or sushi rice (mini-don).

Among the latest sushi creations are Rainbow Roll of tuna, yellow tail, fluke, eel, crab stick and avocado; Godzilla Roll of tuna, avocado, cucumber, tobiko lightly tempura fried; Spicy Salmon Roll; Dragon Roll of eel, crab stick and avocado; and Shrimp Tempura Roll. These rolls are $9 to $12.80.

Desserts are ice cream in flavors of green tea, red bean, vanilla and a delicious ginger. There also is mango sorbet and fresh fruits. Desserts are $4.50 to $12 for a specialty that takes 15 minutes for cooking.

The best way to enjoy Nippon’s cuisine is to ask your server to recommend something you think you would like. After lunch diners feel satisfied but not overstuffed and can return to their business activities alert and ready for action. Of course, the same menu with additions is available during evening hours.

Hours: Monday to Thursday: Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10 p.m.
Friday: Noon to 2:30 p.m. and 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.
Saturday: 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.
Closed Sunday
Credit cards: all major
Wheelchair accessibility: Yes
Price: $$$

The dollar sign indicates the approximate cost of dining for two persons, excluding beverages, tax and gratuity.