The Delta Grill, 700 Ninth Avenue, corner of West 48th Street, (212) 956-0934; Fax: (212) 956-2304. The corner entrance with its faded woodwork lends a bygone feel to this unassuming, atmospheric eatery. You feel that you have stepped into a timeless restaurant in New Orleans with its painted brick walls, pressed tin ceiling and antique ceiling fans. There is a full bar on one side, but settle into one of the comfortable tables in the dining area and you'll be transported to that famed city on the Mississippi.

Begin with a Sazerac Cocktail if you wish, or any other libation. Great choices for appetizers (ranging from $6 to $9) include Oysters Rockefeller, Crawfish Popcorn and Fried Green Tomatoes with Chicken. The Gumbos are wonderful ($5 a cup; $8 for a bowl); chock full of chicken, sausage and seafood, fragrant with flavor. Main courses (ranging from $14 to $21) include classic Jambalaya, Delta Fried Chicken with Candied Yams and Collards, BBQ St. Louis Ribs and Crawfish Etouffee. All servings are generous in size-you won't go away hungry!

Chef Gregory Tatis trained for eight years with the legendary Paul Prudhomme in New Orleans before coming back to his native New York to open The Delta Grill, now in its third year of operation, with Tom Burns. Chef Tatis describes his food as "Cajun, with a New York attitude." We heartily agree, you find honest-to-goodness Louisiana flavor in his beautiful, appealing dishes.

Lest we not forget - on the menu, too, are a selection of "Po' Boys," the hearty, big sandwiches made on French bread (from $8 to $11). Choose from BBQ Pulled Pork, BBQ Chicken, Batter Fried Oysters and others, including the Muffuletta, stuffed with Ham, Mortadella, Salami, Provolone Cheese and a spicy olive relish. Side dishes (from $3 to $4) are Rice & Beans, Macaroni & Cheese and Cole Slaw. A generous complimentary basket of homemade breads accompanies each meal.

Desserts (from $5) lead from the first-rate Bananas Foster, enough for two; to Bread Pudding, Pecan Pie and Coconut Cake.

Hours: 12 noon to midnight everyday

Credit Cards: All major except Diners Club

Wheelchair accessibility: Yes

Dress: Very casual

Parking: Garage in area, 50th Street and Eighth Avenue

Price: ($$)

- Marilyn Hansen

The dollar sign indicates the approximate cost of dining for two persons, excluding beverages, tax and gratuity.